Gypsy Pilgrimage at Saintes-Maries de la Mer

With a bullring next to the beach and a maze of pedestrian streets and white washed houses, the little fishing village of Saintes-Maries de la Mer is the capital of Camargue folk culture and home to some of Provence’s most authentic festivals, including the pélérinages des gitans, the Gypsy Pilgrimages.

According to legend, Lazarus, Mary Magdalene, Mary Jacobe, Mary Salome, and their Egyptian servant, Sara, fled Jerusalem in a raft that drifted to the shores of the Camargue in 40 AD introducing Christianity to France. While Lazarus moved on to neighboring Marseille, Sara and the “Saint Marys” stayed behind to help the local people. Unlike the Marys, Sara never achieved sainthood in the Catholic church, but was adopted by the local Gypsies as their patroness. Twice a year, in late May and mid-October, Gypsies from across Europe make a pilgrimage to this little town to celebrate “Sara la-Kali” (Sara the Black). People clamour to touch her relics as they are taken from the crypt of the 12th Century Notre Dame de la Mer and carried to the sea. The week leading up to the procession offers excellent opportunities to experience authentic Gypsy music and dance.

If the crowds get to be too much for you, this village by the sea offers plenty of ways to escape. Make your way down to the small port to catch a tour boat or to watch local fishermen load up their battered rigs. Head to the rooftop terrace of Notre Dame de la Mer for a panoramic view of the Mediterranean and the Camargue wetlands. Sink your toes in the soft sands of the 30 km long beach as the winds catch the roar of the crowd from a Sunday afternoon bullfight. Thrillseekers can try the kite-surfing school west of the harbor or wander east towards the nude bathing area next to the light house.

For cheap and tasty eats, try the beef with Camargue rice at Les Saveurs d’Ailleurs (18 bis, rue Frédéric Mistral). Most meals are under €10 and include a glass of sangria.

As published at Planet Eye

Images by Kahala on Flickr