Just another ruin…

A summer walk in the hills of Provence is nothing less than a sensual experience. The crunch of stones beneath your feet, the steady drone of cicadas, and the soft rustle of sun-parched leaves set a steady rhythm that keeps you moving until the mouthwatering scent of thyme, rosemary, sage, and lavender, slowly baked under the heat of the Mediterranean sun, create an aroma so sweet that you’re obliged to stop and breathe it all in. Emerald glacial streams, massive gorges, ancient olive trees and purple fields shimmer in the heat and a tease of a breeze tickles your ear whispering, “Stay.”

On a sunny day, Provence is paradise. Yet, nearly every good walk in the region includes the discovery of an ancient building, long since abandoned by those who struggled to survive here but had to move on.

At the rest area on the route to Mont Ventoux, a short walk from the picnic tables leads to the crumbling remains of a shepherd’s home perched on a steep rocky hill. The walls, which someone worked so hard to build in this rocky landscape, have nearly all fallen but the southen wall is still standing, allowing explorers to look out the same window and imagine the difficulty of life in a simpler time.

Driving west on the scenic route from Sault to Cavaillon, the sheer cliffs and stunning depths of the Gorges de la Nesque to your left command all of your attention. After you pass through the third tunnel, however, keep your eyes open for a high stone wall on the right and be ready to pull over. The skinny path through briars and thorns leads to a house so overgrown, it’s turned into a secret garden. A number of small trails lead up the steep hill to a series of cliff dwellings protected from strong winter winds by thick stone walls framing panoramic views of the gorge and its lush forest of pine and chestnut.

As published at Planet Eye